Skin Tips Archives - Page 2 of 3

Have you experienced winter skin?

I appreciate winter has passed, and everyone is looking towards the summer sun, particularly as Easter and the recent bank holiday has been so warm, but in this blog we really wanted to take a step back and discuss your winter skin. For some winter is a daunting time, and we think now would be a good time to discuss some of the issues many people experience over winter so those who do can prepare.

One of the biggest issues to our skin is the heating that we’re all quick to crank up when feeling cold. Now we’re not saying don’t, as heating is important to our wellbeing and survival, but realise that you may start to experience dryness, or your skin may be feeling a little more sensitive than normal. This is because the central heating makes the atmosphere super dry, and we get a higher level of trans epidermal water loss than normal. Team this with walking out of our front door into the cold temperatures plays absolute havoc with our skin and barrier.

As it’s unrealistic to tell you to turn off the heating during those cold winter months, we advise trying to keep it a low as possible, which will help. If you are like us and like to feel quite Mediterranean, investing in a humidifier for the room you’re in, which is great for helping with hydration levels within the skin.

Also look for products containing those barrier lipids to reinforce the protective barrier reducing the risk of trans epidermal water loss. So, look for ceramides, cholesterol, and omegas. The Byonik Seal product is amazing for this, full of ceramides it helps to lock in that hydration, and is suitable to reapply throughout the day, even over makeup!

If you skin is feeling more dry than normal it might also be worth dropping back on the actives such as retinol, vitamin C and AHA’s. These are what we call the spicy actives that can be very stimulating and skin that is experiencing dryness may not be as tolerant to these.

As always this is general advice and it’s always advised to get recommendations tailored to your skin, but these steps should help if you have experienced ‘winter skin’ and want to avoid it this Christmas.

At Re-Skin Clinic, we’re always here to support you on your skin journey. It’s never too early to ask questions and get prepared, and your skin care consultant will be there to get you on the right path.

Please reach out to us anything for support, guidance or to book a consultation.

Skin Cancer Awareness Month

This month is Skin Cancer Awareness month and as much as we may wear our sunscreen to prevent our skin ageing there is an even more important reason to slap it on every day, UV radiation from either the sun or sunbeds is the main cause of skin cancers, and it is the 5th most common cancer in the UK.

With 86% of melanoma skin cancer cases in the UK being preventable and the fact that this type of cancer is detectable with our own eyes should this really be the 5th most common cancer in the UK?

Skin cancer can occur when the skin cells DNA is damaged beyond repair, usually by UV exposure, this triggers mutations that leads to an out of control growth of these abnormal cells. The main types of skin cancer are Merkel cell carcinoma, Squamous cell carcinoma, and Melanoma.

The two main causes are Ultraviolet rays from either the sun or sunbeds, however there are other factors that can make us more susceptible to this type of cancer.

Sun Exposure

Too much sun exposure increases our chances of skin cancer, especially sunburn. In fact, having a blistering sunburn as a child can increase the risk of melanoma in adulthood by double!

All skins should take care in the sun, even darker skin types. If the following applies to you extra care should be taken:

Pale, white, light brown skin
Have freckles, red hair, or fair hair
Tendency to burn
Have many moles
Have a family history of skin cancer
Live in a hot country

This is not an exhaustive list, and every single person should take precautions to protect their skin daily.

Sunbeds

Not only accelerating skin ageing tenfold, sunbeds are artificial UV rays that directly damage your skin cells DNA. The earlier in your life you use sunbeds the greater the risk, and evidence shows people exposed to sunbeds before 25 are at a greater risk of developing skin cancer.

Age

Melanoma risk increases with age, in fact half of people diagnosed with skin cancer in the UK are age 65 and over. But please don’t have the attitude if you are under this that it may not develop as it is still the second most common cancer in adults under 50.

Skin Type

It may be obvious, but the group of people more at risk are people with fair skin, fair or red hair and those with freckles. These skin types burn very easily and therefore their skin’s DNA is easily damaged. However, if you are a darker skin type don’t be under any illusions that you don’t need to be cautious. Yes, darker skins are lower risk but that doesn’t mean that they won’t get it…look at Bob Marley.

Moles

People with lots of moles or moles that are large (5mm+ diameter) are also higher risk. It’s important to keep a close eye on these moles and if any changes are noticed to get them checked immediately.

Family history

There is a small number of melanomas that are caused by inherited genes. If someone in your close family has a history of melanoma, then your risk of developing it can be increased.

Reduced Immunity

A weakened immune system can increase your risk of developing melanoma. HIV, AIDS, or medication that suppresses the immune system can make you a higher risk as the skins immunity system may struggle to repair or fight the damaging forces.

As I said at the beginning of the blog, most skin cancers are preventable and early detection is the key. So protect your skin daily with a good broad spectrum sunscreen, do not use sunbeds, avoid sunburn, and check your moles or any other skin lesions that may appear.

If you need help with your sun protection or keeping your skin in the best of health get in touch for a skin health consultation.

Treating Acne with Nutrition – Video

Acne is a common skin condotion I see in clinic with around 50% of my clientelle suffering from some degree of acne, be it a long term issue, hormonal breakouts around the ‘time of the month,’ or the more recent ‘Maskne’. Its a condition that can really affect confidence, and leave people feeling really down or stressed about their skin.

A lot of my ladies will say “I’m an adult and I cant beleive I have acne, it’s something that happens to teenagers.” But in fact statitics show that around 80% of adults will suffer with acne at some point in their adult life.

So, yseterday I was lucky enough to be joined live on Instagram by Emilia Papadopoullos. Emilia is a nutritionist specialising in treating acne through nutrition.

Myself and Emilia recently worked together with a client to help her achieve clear skin.

By taking a holistic approach, treating the condition from the inside (Emilia) and from the outside (me) it can really accelerate results.

Press play below to watch the live replay of us discussing the subject.

Menopause and The Skin – Part 2 – The Solution

There have always been limited ways in which women who are going through the menopause or experiencing these changes to their skin can access information and treatments available to target this concern. An with so many clinical treatments such as HRT having undesirable side effects it can sometimes feel like we just have to get on with it and put up with the symptoms.

When it comes to the skin we need a solution where we can benefit from activating the oestrogen receptors in the skin without affecting the oestrogen receptors elsewhere in the body potentially resulting in effects that may be associated with some risks.

Last year I discovered Emepelle and the technology behind this product blew my mind. Finally, there was a product that goes to the root of the cause to help resolve the issue of the effects of lower oestrogen on the skin. This product range contains a breakthrough technology called MEP. This has been clinically proven to effectively and safely stimulates the natural functions of the skin that oestrogen would have done previously. Helping to target the root cause of the menopause accelerated ageing on the skin.

MEP stands for Methyl estradiopropanoate (now you can see why we shorten it) and is the only non-hormonal oestrogen skin receptor stimulator to be included in cosmeceutical skincare. By working only on the skin cells to activate the receptors it makes it clinically safe. When applied topically if it does enter the bloodstream it is converted into an inactive metabolite. This allows Emepelle to produce positive effects in improving dullness, dryness, elasticity levels, skin thinning and the appearance of lines and wrinkles, without any risk of systemic side effects

A study on the effects of MEP technology found that over 14 weeks there was a 54% improvement in skin dryness, 20% improvement in skin thickness, 8% improvement on fine lines, 19% improvement on laxity and 39% improvement in skin dullness. This study was done on challenging subjects that were all post-menopausal for at least 3 years, so they would all have had low oestrogen levels and skin that had already been significantly affected by the menopause

The great thing about the Emepelle range is it consists of just two products, a daytime serum and night cream. The serum contains the MEP but also has other beneficial actives in there to further increase those results; Vitamin C and E, Ferulic acid all powerful antioxidants, niacinamide, peptides and hyaluronic acid to help strengthen and hydrate the skin.

The night cream has an even higher % of the MEP but also contains retinol to encourage collagen and cellular functioning further. Again with the peptides, niacinamide and humectant this really is a powerhouse of actives that will work synergistically to create noticeable improvements to the skin.

The photos below show an improvement over just 8 weeks using the Emepelle Regime.

Menopause and the Skin – Part 1

With Oestrogen involved in over 400 functions within the body, no wonder when we reach the menopause and the oestrogen levels decline, do we see so many different symptoms, feelings and changes to our bodies and wellbeing.

When we think about the menopause, we think of the classic symptoms of hot flushes, night sweats and mood swings, but we don’t always realise the significant impact it can have on our skin.

I find when ladies come to see me when they are at the stage of life where their oestrogen levels are starting to decline, they refer to it feeling like their skin has changed overnight. This natural decline in levels of oestrogen can cause our skin to loose up to 30% of collagen in the first 5 years of the menopause. This can have a big impact on the way our skin feels and looks.

How does oestrogen affect our body?

Oestrogen is a collective name for a group of 3 steroid hormones produced by the ovaries; estradiol, estriol, and estrone. They are responsible for the development of our reproductive organs, creating a suitable environment for egg fertilisation and nutrition for the early embryo. Oestrogen of course also controls our menstrual cycle. However, apart from the reproductive side of things, it influences the function of nearly all our major organs.

Oestrogen and the skin

The skin is the largest organ of the body influenced by oestrogen. It produces its effects through oestrogen receptors. These receptors are located within our skin cells and on the outer cell membrane. When oestrogen binds to these receptors a chemical cascade of signals triggers that cell’s function, for example, a fibroblast cell will produce collagen.

These oestrogen receptors are found in numerous types of skin cells, however, they are in higher concentrations over the skin of the face and scalp. The most significant are the fibroblast cells of the dermis, the keratinocyte cells of the epidermis, and the blood vessels.

How oestrogen directly impacts the skin

Collagen, elastin and fibrillin production = skin firmness, elasticity and structure
Hyaluronic acid production = skin hydration
Epidermal thickness = skin hydration and luminosity
Angiogenesis = blood supply to the dermis
Wound healing = effective recovery from injury
Immune response = protection and recovery
Free radical defence = protection from environmental aggressors

What happens to our skin when oestrogen declines?

When our oestrogen levels decline we get a reduction in the receptor activation. This can begin to make changes on a cellular level below the surface reducing the structure and health of the skin. This causes visible changes such as dryness, increased wrinkles, and loss of volume, epidermal thinning and dullness. The menopause can last for several years, starting with Peri-menopause, menopause and post-menopause, and all this time our receptors are losing more and more activation.

To be continued…

Look out for Part 2 where I discuss how we can help the skin reduce the effects of the menopause.

If you are feeling the effects of the menopause on your skin and would like help then please get in touch here, or alternatively, you can book in a virtual consultation where we can discuss your skin’s needs and put a plan in place to get you the results you want.

What Does a Compromised Barrier Look Like?

When we have a compromised barrier function our skin becomes more vulnerable to external attacks from things such as pollution, pathogens, microorganisms, the weather etc. It also loses the ability to hold onto the natural hydration in the skin. This hydration is vital to keeping our skin healthy, inflammation down, and its ability to fight attacks from those external forces. Our overall cellular functioning throughout the skin also requires moisture, and I always find a more hydrated skin is more tolerant to most things especially active skincare.

So what are the symptoms of a compromised barrier function? I have listed these below, this list is by no means exhaustive but these are the most common signs.

Skin tightness (constant/after cleansing)
Flaking, dehydrated skin
Oiliness combined with flaking/tightness
Redness or sensitivity
Dullness
Breakouts
Under the skin bumps/spots
Premature ageing
Dermatitis

Desquamation

I thought it was important to mention this as this process in the skin can be dramatically reduced due to our barrier being disrupted. The process of desquamation is the natural shedding of those old skin cells on the surface of the skin to allow for the cycle of the epidermal cells to keep going. Our epidermal cells start off at the base layer of the epidermis and move up, as they do this they become hardened and more resilient to allow for the protective ability needed at that top layer. Once they have reached the top, a chemical process dissolves the bonds between these cells to allow them to shed off and become house dust. This chemical reaction requires moisture to happen, and if our barrier is impaired we lose that all-important moisture and the desquamation process is affected. This results in our skin looking dull, flaky, and our whole epidermal skin cycle slowing down.

What can impair your barrier function?

You might have read the list above and thought that your skin is experiencing some of the signs of an impaired barrier, but what might be causing it?

Below I have listed a few factors that can cause the skin to become compromised, again this is not an exhaustive list but if you feel you are currently suffering from the symptoms it is always a good idea to get professional advice.

Over-exfoliation
Incorrect cleansing products
Sun damage
Pollution
Cold weather/wind
Hormones
Stress
Smoking
Diet
Dry atmosphere
Medication
Diet

As you can see there are many elements that can affect the resilience of our skin, and we probably encounter more than one of these on a daily basis. Our skin is designed to cope with a lot and sometimes all that is needed is to maybe just stop using a certain product and leave your skin to repair and rebuild on its own, other times it may need help. I have included a few products below that are my go-to remedies for compromised skin. But remember this is a general recommendation and without a skin assessment you won’t get individual advice.

Dermaviduals DMS Cleansing Milk

I see so many compromised skins due to incorrect cleansing products used, so your cleanser is the foundation of your skincare regime and a big player in the integrity of your barrier. The Dermaviduals cleanser is gentle, effectively removes makeup and impurities without negatively affecting the skin. There is nothing in this cleanser that the skin doesn’t recognize or that can upset the protective element of the skin.

Skin Omegas

Our skins natural lipids are made up of these essential fatty acids, so adding these supplements into your diet will help keep those lipid levels high and your lipid bilayer making up the skins barrier function nice and strong.

Byonik Supreme Seal

This product is a must for repairing barrier disruption. Containing a high content of ceramides, fatty acids and cholesterol that make up our barrier lipids. It reduces that water loss and restructures the skin’s barrier. It’s also a great product for healing conditions such as eczema and dermatitis.

Byonik Concur Cream

Another product full of those essential lipids, the Byonik anti-pollution Concur cream Contains repairing, healing, and hydrating actives as well as the powerful anti-ageing peptide Matrixyl Synthe 6 promoting the production of collagen, elastin and the all important Hyaluronic acid for hydration.

These are just a few of my recommendations for compromised skin, but my advice is to always see a professional that can give you individual recommendations for your skin and investigate why your skin is behaving the way it is.

To make an appointment to see myself please click here, I offer virtual consultations during lockdown or for anyone that cannot get into clinic to see me. If you are interested in purchasing any of the recommendations above please email me here.

Thank you for reading

Rebecca x

The Barrier Function- Our Very Own Coat of Armour

My focus this month is on skin health and keeping the skin youthful. I wouldn’t be the professional that I am if I don’t start this off with the Natural Barrier Function. Yes, I hear you…” here she goes again” but there’s a very good reason I talk non-stop about this incredible function of the skin.

So let me start by asking you, why when you jump into a swimming pool does your body not flood with water???

Well, that would be because of the amazing ability of our skin to protect our entire body, our vital organs, bones, muscles, everything inside! Waterproofing is just one of the many, many functions our skin is designed to do. Pretty impressive for something that is just 0.5-1.5mm thick!!

And what makes the skin have this protective ability is the barrier function.

The barrier function is made up of 3 main elements:

The lipid bilayer

The corneocyte cells in the top layer of the epidermis (stratum corneum) are flattened and hardened to give them a protective ability. Between these cells we have the epidermal lipids, if you imagine a brick wall, the cells are the bricks and the lipids are the cement. These cells also have a water-retaining mechanism called the Natural Moisturising Factor compromising of humectants enabling the cells to hold large amounts of water.

This combination of essential oil and water elements creates a complete barrier to prevent anything from getting in and also water loss from within the skin. All cellular and enzyme activity that takes place in the skin does so in solution with water so keeping the water content high is vital to skin health.

The Acid Mantle

The acid mantle is an invisible film that covers the surface of the skin. It creates the PH level, a healthy skin’s PH level is more towards the acidic end of the PH scale, normally sitting between 4.7-5.5. This acidic environment works to repel and inhibit any pathogenic bacteria or micro-organisms that may try and get into the skin. It also provides the ecosystem for the resident natural bacteria that lives on the skin.

Microbiome

Just like the gut, we have living active cultures on the surface of the skin (good bacteria) that fight off any bad bacteria, viruses or pathogens that may try to attack or invade our skin. As mentioned above this bacteria feeds off our sebaceous secretions.

As you can see there is a lot that goes into building and fortifying both the physical resistance and chemical shield. So you can imagine if one element goes out of kilter it can have a knock-on effect, not just to the other elements of the barrier but to the deeper layers of the skin that the barrier is designed to protect.

The formation of these components of the barrier function starts from within the lower layers of the skin. So the quality of the barrier ultimately relies on the quality of the cells, and the cells rely on what they receive nutritionally and topically to be at the top of their game.

In my next blog, I will be discussing what can happen when the barrier is compromised and the ways in which we can keep it from becoming impaired.

If you do feel you have issues with your barrier function or any other aspect of your skin please get in touch, you can contact me by email here or book an appointment with me here. During lockdown, I am offering online consultations free of charge.

Autumn Skincare Tips

As the weather is starting to change and the leaves falling from the trees, are you noticing changes within your skin too???

The temperature outside is becoming colder and our central heating is being switched on, this can have a big impact on our skin. The low humidity levels within our houses, the cooler temperatures outside and winds can really reduce our skins ability to hold on to the water levels within the skin.

A process called Trans Epidermal Water Loss will be accelerated, as our skins natural barrier function can become compromised under these conditions. The consequence of this is our skin feeling tight, maybe a little flakey and more sensitive. Sound familiar??

What you may not see initially on the outside is the skins inflammatory response being on higher alert with the skin in this condition. This further reduces the health of the skin and can even accelerate premature ageing and exacerbate conditions such as rosacea, pigmentation, problematic skin.

So autumn is upon us and I’d be lying if I didn’t say it was my favourite month (love a jumper 😂) however its certainly not our skins favourite month. When I am presented with a skin showing these issues I quickly turn to barrier repair before anything else. @Dermavidualsuk is my go-to brand for this, it allows me to completely customise your home care and it’s skin structure identical formulation makes it the perfect choice for strengthening that barrier. But there are also things you can do at home to support your skin.

Add Omega 3&6 supplements to your diet- Our skins natural lipids are made up of these essential fatty acids, so adding these supplements or increasing your intake of oily fish, avocados, walnuts etc will help keep those lipid levels high and your lipid bilayer making up the skins barrier function nice and strong. (My favourites, Advanced Nutrition Programme Skin Omegas and Moisture lock)
Use a hydrating toner- adding this step into your regime will add another dose of hydration to make up for what’s being lost. (My favourite, Dermaviduals Moisturising Toner)
Drink more water- I very rarely come across anyone who says they drink enough water, myself included. But increasing your water intake will do wonders for your skin at this time.
Invest in a humidifier- These are great to have on in your bedroom during the night when our central heating is blasting out and sucking every last bit of hydration out of your skin!! A humidifier will prevent the air from being so dry, add in a humectant serum at night, like hyaluronic acid and you will wake with skin full of hydration! (My favourite AlumierMD Ultimate Boost Serum)
Change up your moisturiser- going for a slightly thicker moisturiser will ease any feeling of dryness. I also recommend looking for products with ceramides to further increase and strengthen the barrier of the skin.

It is always recommended to review your skincare regime as the seasons change to ensure your products are giving your skin everything it needs at that time (yep its not just our clothes that change with the seasons) So please get in touch if you feel your Autumn skin issues need resolving, you need to change up your skincare, or if you are interested in any of the products mentioned. You can also book in to see me in clinic or for a virtual consultation here.

Are you suffering from ‘Maskne’?

So over the past couple of months under lockdown, I have had a few people get in touch that are working either on the front line or in a place of work where they need to wear a face mask. The issue a lot of these people are getting is their skin is breaking out. Even if they aren’t prone to spots, some have never had a spot in their life but the constant wearing of these face masks are causing them to get consistent breakouts.

The condition that is being caused by these masks is what we call acne mechanica. This type of acne is caused by the friction and heat from wearing the mask for long periods of time, even if you are not prone to acne or have an existing condition. If you are wearing make-up under the mask this can exacerbate the condition causing the pores to clog up even further. If your skins natural barrier function is compromised this may cause you to be more prone to having this condition. The condition presents as papules or pustules and may even progress to the more severe cysts that are a characteristic of grade 5 acne.

To treat acne mechanica, our first approach would obviously be removing the trigger, which in this case would be the face mask. This is not possible in most cases at the minute and may not be for many months or even years to come if you are working within the NHS. Many people may reach for the harsh acne fighting products, but this is likely to cause more irritation and impair the barrier function further.

My approach here will be initially to repair and support the barrier function and work on reducing the infection. I would start slow and gently to not cause any further irritation from skincare that is too active if you have a busy skincare regime you may need to step it back a little. A gentle cleanser that is going to cleanse the skin effectively yet support the barrier function, remember we don’t want a squeaky clean feeling from our cleanser, this is an indication of dehydration and a compromised skin. A hydrating non-comedogenic moisturiser, I always recommend Dermaviduals, their approach in treating the skin via the principle of corneotherapy is perfect for this skin condition. My go-to acid would be a low % salicylic acid initially; this is an oil-soluble acid that will gently clear out the pores and help to reduce any inflammation.

Avoid wearing make-up at times when wearing the face mask, this will just add to the clogged pores and make the ‘Maskne’ worse. Changing your mask frequently will also benefit the skin, once the mask gets damp this is the perfect breeding ground for bacteria.

Once you have finished your shift or period of wearing a mask, give your skin a good cleanse to remove any bacteria or excess skin cells hanging around.

I hope if you are reading this and suffering from ‘Maskne’ you found it useful, if you feel you need a little more support and advice on your skin please don’t hesitate to get in touch. My online consultations are free until the 4^thJuly and you can book one here, we can discuss your skin concerns and get you on the road to beautiful skin!

Treating Dehydration

In my previous post, I discussed that the most common reason for dehydration was a compromised barrier function. So initially this is what we want to focus on and restore. Once the barrier has been restored the skin will be able to hold the moisture within the skin and prevent trans epidermal water loss (TEWL).

Most people will go straight to products containing Hyaluronic acid to solve dehydration but this alone will not be enough.

The first thing to look at is your cleanser. These can be the main culprits, especially in clients with oily or acne skins. I find these clients tend to be after that squeaky clean feeling, but this tight, clean feeling we get after cleansing can be a sign of dehydration. Our cleansers need to be gentle but effective, not stripping, and maintain the skins natural PH. If your cleanser is giving you the tight feeling then its time to change!

Exfoliation is also a biggy. How often, what type, and the strength of your exfoliant is important to get right. Exfoliation and acids are a big thing at the minute with some skincare brands focusing on just that. However, if we go back to the barrier function we don’t want to overdo it and take off those layers that are part of that lipid bilayer within the stratum corneum. Exfoliation advice is as individual as you are so speak to your skincare professional who will advise you on how much your skin needs.

Hyaluronic acid is usually the go-to for dehydrated skin. However, don’t rely solely on this products to solve all your problems. In fact, in some cases, it can make those problems worse. Don’t get me wrong I love HA but under some circumstances, it’s not my immediate go-to active. HA is a humectant, which means it draws moisture in from where it can. This is great if you’re living in a humid environment, but if you’re sat at home or in an office with central heating or air-con, these create a dry environment. In these conditions what HA will do is draw up the moisture from the dermis into the epidermis, and that then maybe evaporated out of the surface with the rest of the moisture.

If we get our barrier function nice and strong and our environment isn’t too dry (turn down that thermostat) Then this active will definitely be on the list as a hydrator. HA can hold up to 1000 times its own weight in water, so get the above right and your skin will not only thank you but look dewy, fresh and plump all at the same time.

Avoiding occlusive products. Our skin needs a certain level of trans epidermal water loss (but not too much) to allow for more to be produced in the lower layers. If we use creams that are too occlusive this creates a barrier for that TEWL and our skin stop producing its own levels of moisture.

Diet. We can get extra moisture within our diet but this may not necessarily reach your skin. So up your water intake, it’s not the most effective way to hydrate your skin but what it will do is help drain out those toxins from the body and create healthier skin. It is also important to include the essential fatty acids within the diet, oily fish, avocado, nuts etc. all contain these or get extra through supplements. These EFA are components of our lipid bilayer, which makes up our barrier function.

Avoid any foods that will cause inflammation, and this may vary from person to person. But higher levels of inflammation can have an impact on how our body and skin functions. It can impact on barrier function, the natural production of hyaluronic acid, and how each and every cell in the skin functions.

So as you can see automatically reaching for the Hyaluronic acid will not solve all your problems when it comes to dehydration, it’s a case of combining all of the above to get you results.

Are you feeling dehydrated? or not sure what’s happening with your skin, and need help? I am offering FREE online consultations during lockdown so click here to book and we can get you on the track to hydrated, healthy, happy skin