My focus this week has been on the sun, we’ve had the most beautiful weather for a few weeks now, which is extremely out of character for the UK, so I thought it’s the perfect time address this subject. My previous post was on sunscreens and how we can protect our skin from the UV rays we get from the sun. This post is going to be all about one of the most common skin conditions that I see in my clinic and is a direct result of sun exposure, Photodamage or Photoageing.

So Photodamaged skin is an example of premature ageing, and premature ageing, you may already understand if you have read my E-Book, is ageing that is caused by external and internal factors that we can usually control.

Overtime UV rays from the sun penetrate our skin, UVB that travels into our epidermis (top layer), and UVA that can travel into the deeper layers of our Dermis. UVA, in particular, weakens our skins supporting collagen and elastin resulting in wrinkles, pigmentation, and a thickened, leathery appearance.

So if we look at UVA rays and how they affect our skin. These damaging rays are out in full force regardless of the weather. Come rain or shine they are there, travelling through the clouds on a cloudy day and through our windows in our homes or cars, we cant escape them! Their wavelength allows them to travel right into the dermal layer of our skin and attack our collagen, elastin and hyaluronic acid and also the production of these components as well.

Free Radicals – UV rays cause free radical activity within our skin cells this causes damage to the cells DNA and can render them useless. They cant do the job they are there to do which can have a knock-on effect on other functions within the skin.

Vitamin C– Vitamin C is needed for collagen production, however, UV rays oxidise this vital nutrient so it is no more. Your fibroblast cells will then be missing one of the most important components in its production of collagen. Imagine baking a cake without flour!!!

Vitamin A– UV also inactivates Vitamin A receptors in the skins cells. Vitamin A is required for cellular reproduction and functioning. So if this is not available the chances of poor cellular production or damage are high.

MMP’s– MMP’s or Matrix Metalloproteinases are enzymes that live in our dermis, their job is to breakdown old, damaged collagen to make room for new collagen to be made. When the skin is exposed to excessive sun or exposed every day to the UV rays this can cause the MMP’s to proliferate and start breaking down our healthy collagen.

If we take all these factors above into account, it spells a recipe for poor collagen levels within the skin and therefore poor structural support. If our skin doesn’t have structure, then what does it have? Yes, you guessed it, WRINKLES!!!

The photo here is a powerful image portraying the power of sun damage. Its thought this gentleman was a truck driver in the States. You can clearly see that the side of his face that was exposed to the UV rays through the window in his truck has considerably more photodamage than the other side.

Another characteristic of Photodamage is pigmentation. Our skins main role is protection, and our melanin is part of the skin protective armour. However, it’s not always fully cut out for the role.

 

Melanocytes are the skin cells that produce our skin’s pigment (melanin), they sit at the base of the epidermis, so both UVA and UVB rays can reach them. They have an octopus-like shape allowing them to feed lots of epidermal skin cells (keratinocytes) at once. The melanocyte produces melanin to protect our skin cells nucleus form the attack of UV rays. However, with long-term exposure or excessive exposure, these melanocytes can go a little crazy. The damage to these cells DNA can cause them to over produce melanin, and deposit it into cells that it shouldn’t, such as the stem cells or neighbouring melanocyte cells. These cells, unlike the keratinocyte cells, are permanent; they don’t desquamate off so that pigment also becomes permanent. This is why we see those freckles or age spots appearing on the surface of our skin.

The thing with photodamage is its not an immediate effect. The symptoms of the condition happen gradually over the years with the accumulation of sun damage. So when the damage is actually being done we can be totally oblivious to it until we look in the mirror one day and realise that damage that has been done. It can then be a task to try and reverse the damage. The old-age saying of prevention is better than the cure is certainly one to follow here. My next blog is going to be all about prevention and how to treat photodamaged skin, so be sure to pop back in a few days.

For help with your skin book your virtual skin consultation here.

 

 

 

This is a subject that, when discussed with my clients they always seem surprised and bewildered that I am telling them to wear sunscreen even in the winter months. Sun protection should not be limited to use on our sunshine holidays to solely prevent the short term effects in the form of sunburn. It is the long term exposure that causes gradual damage and accounts for about 90% of the skin’s signs of ageing and leads to a higher risk of skin cancers, including melanoma.

The 2 main categories of UV light that reach the earth’s surface are UVA and UVB.  Most people have already experienced the effects of UVB rays in the form of sunburn, and yes so have I. Being very fair-skinned and lacking in knowledge in my early years I have on too many occasions become a victim to the very aggressive rays and been left with a painful reminder that the suns UV rays, even though invisible to the eye, are a force to be reckoned with!

UVB rays account for 5% of the suns rays and vary throughout the seasons and weather conditions. They penetrate into the superficial epidermal layers of the skin and play a big part in the development of pigmentation irregularities and contribute to photo-ageing.

UVA, on the other hand, accounts for 95% of the UV rays that reach the earth’s surface and can pass through clouds, glass and are present every day of the year at equal intensity during all daylight hours.

They have a longer wavelength and, as you can see from the image, penetrate deeper into the skins dermal tissue, causing the degradation of collagen, elastin and blood vessels. This leads to the appearance of lines, wrinkles and a slackening of the skin.

Alongside the effects of ageing UVA and UVB have on the skin is the more detrimental damage causing the development of skin cancer. This makes it even more important to protect from these harmful rays.

Getting the right kind of protection for your skin type is vital to the long term health of your skin – Click here for a FREE online consultation today!

Sunscreens

UVA should be the focus when using a sunscreen considering it comprises 95% of UV and is responsible for the majority of photoaging and skin cancer. However, consumers believe they are being protected from all UV rays when using an SPF. The SPF number shows only the level of protection from UVB rays. Products giving a high SPF that mainly absorb UVB reduce the risk of sunburn so allowing you to stay in the sun longer, you may not burn, however, you will actually increase your risk of UVA damage.

Types of filters

To ensure protection from both UVA and UVB a “broad spectrum” sunscreen is required, the product will clearly state if it has broad-spectrum protection. Along with this type of protection, I also recommend using a sunscreen with physical filters rather than chemical. Chemical filters are made up of particles that are absorbed into the skin and deactivate the rays changing the light energy to heat. There have been many studies that have drawn attention to the potential hazards of chemical filters used in sunscreens, such as suspected hormone disruptors and allergens.

Sunscreens using physical filters like Zinc oxide and titanium dioxide, which are safe, gentle and natural minerals, sit on the skin’s surface and reflect and scatter the light away from the skin. Since these minerals are just sitting on the skin’s surface they are comfortable and non-irritating even for the most sensitive of skins.

So what do I recommend you use?

After extensive research and trialling products myself I came across AlumierMD that, not only provide excellent results through their treatments but the targeted homecare products and focus on sun protection gave me the confidence to not only use on my own skin but to recommend to my clients also.

The problem that sometimes arises with people wearing sunscreens every day is they feel that the texture of the product is not suitable for them. AlumierMD has created a range of cosmetically elegant formulas that allow for a choice in texture and even tint. Therefore these sunscreens can be worn alone or under your makeup and, just like me, you will love using them every day.

Sheer Hydration Broad Spectrum Sunscreen SPF 40

Great for dry skin this product with its sheer texture gives a silky and healthy glow. Containing moisturizing Vitamin E and packed with free-radical quenching anti-oxidants, it is offered in either untinted formula or with a versatile tint that blends beautifully on the skin.

Clear Shield Broad Spectrum Sunscreen SPF 42

Great for all skin types but especially good for acne and rosacea skins as it is lightweight, oil-free, and non-comedogenic. It contains Niacinamide to soothe and relieve redness targeting blemishes. Its light texture, gentle and quick-drying formula makes it perfect for the oilier skin types and also the men love this product.

Moisture Matte Broad Spectrum Sunscreen SPF 40

My personal favourite, this sunscreen is suitable for normal to oily skin.  The formula lightly moisturizes to smooth and hydrate, while absorbing excess oil creating a matte finish.  Cutting edge colour encapsulated beads blend on the skin to create a sheer healthy glow. It is offered in 3 tints and is great if you don’t wear foundation but would like a little coverage, alternatively, it can be worn under makeup. You can customize the level of tint and coverage with this clever product, a light rub onto the skin will release only a few colour beads resulting in a light tint or by rubbing a little longer you will achieve a deeper tint.

Find out how the sun affects our skin on a daily basis- click here to read more.

If there is one thing you add into your skincare regime, if you haven’t already, make it a sunscreen and if your not sure on what will be the best product for you or would like to discuss any skin concerns, why not book in for a FREE skin consultation with myself and I can customise a regime perfect for you!

During lockdown, my consultations have gone virtual!! So to book your online consultation click here and we can discuss your concerns and create you a regime to help target these.

Our skin can be very quick to react to changes in the atmosphere and being our first line of defence it is important that it is prepared for this change. We are just about to step into spring so we can expect a change of temperature, humidity, and UV levels. This can all affect how our skin functions and responds to its external environment.

Sometimes it is not always about the change in the season that can cause issues, it can be the damage from the previous season. We are just coming out of the cold winter months, which can cause absolute havoc with our skin, the central heating, harsh weather and lack of daylight, to name just a few, will have had a massive impact on our skins barrier function.

As the weather transitions, this can cause changes within our skin for example humidity levels rising can result in the skin feeling a little more oily, or atmosphere changes can cause reactive skins to flare up. Different skin types and conditions can respond differently to the change in seasons. So it is important to get an individual assessment of your skin.

To minimise any impact of changes in weather it is vital our skins natural barrier function is intact and working effectively. This will ensure the skin is in a good healthy state to deal with anything the season throws at it. Making a few tweaks in your skincare regime may be necessary to ensure the skin responds well to any seasonal changes.

Here are a few tips to keeping our skin happy and ready for the new season:

1. Ensure your cleanser isn’t stripping skin of its essential oils. I see this so often where people are using the wrong cleanser for their skin type or condition, or even worse they are using wipes to clean their face! If your cleanser is having a detrimental effect on your skin there is no point applying any other product to your face as it will be a waste of time and money.
2. Drink plenty of water throughout the day. In terms of hydrating the skin, this is not always the most effective way, however, drinking the recommended water intake each day helps flush out any toxins in the body. A healthy body means healthy skin.
3. Include antioxidants in your skincare as well as your diet. Our body is the last in the biological queue to receive any resources from the body. Therefore even if you eat the recommended dose of fruit and vegetables your skin will be receiving a minimum amount of antioxidants from these. We need antioxidants to reduce the free radical activity that causes damage to our cells and reduces their ability to function well and can even cause cell mutations and apoptosis (cell death)
4. Introduce Retinol! This is a great time of the year to start slowly introducing Retinol into your skin regime. This active is great for almost all skin types, however, always seek advice from a professional as it can be very active and cause unwanted side effects if not used correctly.

And of course, you shouldn’t need telling anymore, but don’t forget your sunscreen every day. The UV levels are increasing so it more important than ever to protect your skin.

Thank you for reading, and if you need any advice on your own skincare regime or skin concerns please get in touch.