Skin Tips Archives - Page 3 of 4

Menopause and The Skin – Part 2 – The Solution

There have always been limited ways in which women who are going through the menopause or experiencing these changes to their skin can access information and treatments available to target this concern. An with so many clinical treatments such as HRT having undesirable side effects it can sometimes feel like we just have to get on with it and put up with the symptoms.

When it comes to the skin we need a solution where we can benefit from activating the oestrogen receptors in the skin without affecting the oestrogen receptors elsewhere in the body potentially resulting in effects that may be associated with some risks.

Last year I discovered Emepelle and the technology behind this product blew my mind. Finally, there was a product that goes to the root of the cause to help resolve the issue of the effects of lower oestrogen on the skin. This product range contains a breakthrough technology called MEP. This has been clinically proven to effectively and safely stimulates the natural functions of the skin that oestrogen would have done previously. Helping to target the root cause of the menopause accelerated ageing on the skin.

MEP stands for Methyl estradiopropanoate (now you can see why we shorten it) and is the only non-hormonal oestrogen skin receptor stimulator to be included in cosmeceutical skincare. By working only on the skin cells to activate the receptors it makes it clinically safe. When applied topically if it does enter the bloodstream it is converted into an inactive metabolite. This allows Emepelle to produce positive effects in improving dullness, dryness, elasticity levels, skin thinning and the appearance of lines and wrinkles, without any risk of systemic side effects

A study on the effects of MEP technology found that over 14 weeks there was a 54% improvement in skin dryness, 20% improvement in skin thickness, 8% improvement on fine lines, 19% improvement on laxity and 39% improvement in skin dullness. This study was done on challenging subjects that were all post-menopausal for at least 3 years, so they would all have had low oestrogen levels and skin that had already been significantly affected by the menopause

The great thing about the Emepelle range is it consists of just two products, a daytime serum and night cream. The serum contains the MEP but also has other beneficial actives in there to further increase those results; Vitamin C and E, Ferulic acid all powerful antioxidants, niacinamide, peptides and hyaluronic acid to help strengthen and hydrate the skin.

The night cream has an even higher % of the MEP but also contains retinol to encourage collagen and cellular functioning further. Again with the peptides, niacinamide and humectant this really is a powerhouse of actives that will work synergistically to create noticeable improvements to the skin.

The photos below show an improvement over just 8 weeks using the Emepelle Regime.

Menopause and the Skin – Part 1

With Oestrogen involved in over 400 functions within the body, no wonder when we reach the menopause and the oestrogen levels decline, do we see so many different symptoms, feelings and changes to our bodies and wellbeing.

When we think about the menopause, we think of the classic symptoms of hot flushes, night sweats and mood swings, but we don’t always realise the significant impact it can have on our skin.

I find when ladies come to see me when they are at the stage of life where their oestrogen levels are starting to decline, they refer to it feeling like their skin has changed overnight. This natural decline in levels of oestrogen can cause our skin to loose up to 30% of collagen in the first 5 years of the menopause. This can have a big impact on the way our skin feels and looks.

How does oestrogen affect our body?

Oestrogen is a collective name for a group of 3 steroid hormones produced by the ovaries; estradiol, estriol, and estrone. They are responsible for the development of our reproductive organs, creating a suitable environment for egg fertilisation and nutrition for the early embryo. Oestrogen of course also controls our menstrual cycle. However, apart from the reproductive side of things, it influences the function of nearly all our major organs.

Oestrogen and the skin

The skin is the largest organ of the body influenced by oestrogen. It produces its effects through oestrogen receptors. These receptors are located within our skin cells and on the outer cell membrane. When oestrogen binds to these receptors a chemical cascade of signals triggers that cell’s function, for example, a fibroblast cell will produce collagen.

These oestrogen receptors are found in numerous types of skin cells, however, they are in higher concentrations over the skin of the face and scalp. The most significant are the fibroblast cells of the dermis, the keratinocyte cells of the epidermis, and the blood vessels.

How oestrogen directly impacts the skin

Collagen, elastin and fibrillin production = skin firmness, elasticity and structure
Hyaluronic acid production = skin hydration
Epidermal thickness = skin hydration and luminosity
Angiogenesis = blood supply to the dermis
Wound healing = effective recovery from injury
Immune response = protection and recovery
Free radical defence = protection from environmental aggressors

What happens to our skin when oestrogen declines?

When our oestrogen levels decline we get a reduction in the receptor activation. This can begin to make changes on a cellular level below the surface reducing the structure and health of the skin. This causes visible changes such as dryness, increased wrinkles, and loss of volume, epidermal thinning and dullness. The menopause can last for several years, starting with Peri-menopause, menopause and post-menopause, and all this time our receptors are losing more and more activation.

To be continued…

Look out for Part 2 where I discuss how we can help the skin reduce the effects of the menopause.

If you are feeling the effects of the menopause on your skin and would like help then please get in touch here, or alternatively, you can book in a virtual consultation where we can discuss your skin’s needs and put a plan in place to get you the results you want.

What Does a Compromised Barrier Look Like?

When we have a compromised barrier function our skin becomes more vulnerable to external attacks from things such as pollution, pathogens, microorganisms, the weather etc. It also loses the ability to hold onto the natural hydration in the skin. This hydration is vital to keeping our skin healthy, inflammation down, and its ability to fight attacks from those external forces. Our overall cellular functioning throughout the skin also requires moisture, and I always find a more hydrated skin is more tolerant to most things especially active skincare.

So what are the symptoms of a compromised barrier function? I have listed these below, this list is by no means exhaustive but these are the most common signs.

Skin tightness (constant/after cleansing)
Flaking, dehydrated skin
Oiliness combined with flaking/tightness
Redness or sensitivity
Dullness
Breakouts
Under the skin bumps/spots
Premature ageing
Dermatitis

Desquamation

I thought it was important to mention this as this process in the skin can be dramatically reduced due to our barrier being disrupted. The process of desquamation is the natural shedding of those old skin cells on the surface of the skin to allow for the cycle of the epidermal cells to keep going. Our epidermal cells start off at the base layer of the epidermis and move up, as they do this they become hardened and more resilient to allow for the protective ability needed at that top layer. Once they have reached the top, a chemical process dissolves the bonds between these cells to allow them to shed off and become house dust. This chemical reaction requires moisture to happen, and if our barrier is impaired we lose that all-important moisture and the desquamation process is affected. This results in our skin looking dull, flaky, and our whole epidermal skin cycle slowing down.

What can impair your barrier function?

You might have read the list above and thought that your skin is experiencing some of the signs of an impaired barrier, but what might be causing it?

Below I have listed a few factors that can cause the skin to become compromised, again this is not an exhaustive list but if you feel you are currently suffering from the symptoms it is always a good idea to get professional advice.

Over-exfoliation
Incorrect cleansing products
Sun damage
Pollution
Cold weather/wind
Hormones
Stress
Smoking
Diet
Dry atmosphere
Medication
Diet

As you can see there are many elements that can affect the resilience of our skin, and we probably encounter more than one of these on a daily basis. Our skin is designed to cope with a lot and sometimes all that is needed is to maybe just stop using a certain product and leave your skin to repair and rebuild on its own, other times it may need help. I have included a few products below that are my go-to remedies for compromised skin. But remember this is a general recommendation and without a skin assessment you won’t get individual advice.

Dermaviduals DMS Cleansing Milk

I see so many compromised skins due to incorrect cleansing products used, so your cleanser is the foundation of your skincare regime and a big player in the integrity of your barrier. The Dermaviduals cleanser is gentle, effectively removes makeup and impurities without negatively affecting the skin. There is nothing in this cleanser that the skin doesn’t recognize or that can upset the protective element of the skin.

Skin Omegas

Our skins natural lipids are made up of these essential fatty acids, so adding these supplements into your diet will help keep those lipid levels high and your lipid bilayer making up the skins barrier function nice and strong.

Byonik Supreme Seal

This product is a must for repairing barrier disruption. Containing a high content of ceramides, fatty acids and cholesterol that make up our barrier lipids. It reduces that water loss and restructures the skin’s barrier. It’s also a great product for healing conditions such as eczema and dermatitis.

Byonik Concur Cream

Another product full of those essential lipids, the Byonik anti-pollution Concur cream Contains repairing, healing, and hydrating actives as well as the powerful anti-ageing peptide Matrixyl Synthe 6 promoting the production of collagen, elastin and the all important Hyaluronic acid for hydration.

These are just a few of my recommendations for compromised skin, but my advice is to always see a professional that can give you individual recommendations for your skin and investigate why your skin is behaving the way it is.

To make an appointment to see myself please click here, I offer virtual consultations during lockdown or for anyone that cannot get into clinic to see me. If you are interested in purchasing any of the recommendations above please email me here.

Thank you for reading

Rebecca x

The Barrier Function- Our Very Own Coat of Armour

My focus this month is on skin health and keeping the skin youthful. I wouldn’t be the professional that I am if I don’t start this off with the Natural Barrier Function. Yes, I hear you…” here she goes again” but there’s a very good reason I talk non-stop about this incredible function of the skin.

So let me start by asking you, why when you jump into a swimming pool does your body not flood with water???

Well, that would be because of the amazing ability of our skin to protect our entire body, our vital organs, bones, muscles, everything inside! Waterproofing is just one of the many, many functions our skin is designed to do. Pretty impressive for something that is just 0.5-1.5mm thick!!

And what makes the skin have this protective ability is the barrier function.

The barrier function is made up of 3 main elements:

The lipid bilayer

The corneocyte cells in the top layer of the epidermis (stratum corneum) are flattened and hardened to give them a protective ability. Between these cells we have the epidermal lipids, if you imagine a brick wall, the cells are the bricks and the lipids are the cement. These cells also have a water-retaining mechanism called the Natural Moisturising Factor compromising of humectants enabling the cells to hold large amounts of water.

This combination of essential oil and water elements creates a complete barrier to prevent anything from getting in and also water loss from within the skin. All cellular and enzyme activity that takes place in the skin does so in solution with water so keeping the water content high is vital to skin health.

The Acid Mantle

The acid mantle is an invisible film that covers the surface of the skin. It creates the PH level, a healthy skin’s PH level is more towards the acidic end of the PH scale, normally sitting between 4.7-5.5. This acidic environment works to repel and inhibit any pathogenic bacteria or micro-organisms that may try and get into the skin. It also provides the ecosystem for the resident natural bacteria that lives on the skin.

Microbiome

Just like the gut, we have living active cultures on the surface of the skin (good bacteria) that fight off any bad bacteria, viruses or pathogens that may try to attack or invade our skin. As mentioned above this bacteria feeds off our sebaceous secretions.

As you can see there is a lot that goes into building and fortifying both the physical resistance and chemical shield. So you can imagine if one element goes out of kilter it can have a knock-on effect, not just to the other elements of the barrier but to the deeper layers of the skin that the barrier is designed to protect.

The formation of these components of the barrier function starts from within the lower layers of the skin. So the quality of the barrier ultimately relies on the quality of the cells, and the cells rely on what they receive nutritionally and topically to be at the top of their game.

In my next blog, I will be discussing what can happen when the barrier is compromised and the ways in which we can keep it from becoming impaired.

If you do feel you have issues with your barrier function or any other aspect of your skin please get in touch, you can contact me by email here or book an appointment with me here. During lockdown, I am offering online consultations free of charge.

Autumn Skincare Tips

As the weather is starting to change and the leaves falling from the trees, are you noticing changes within your skin too???

The temperature outside is becoming colder and our central heating is being switched on, this can have a big impact on our skin. The low humidity levels within our houses, the cooler temperatures outside and winds can really reduce our skins ability to hold on to the water levels within the skin.

A process called Trans Epidermal Water Loss will be accelerated, as our skins natural barrier function can become compromised under these conditions. The consequence of this is our skin feeling tight, maybe a little flakey and more sensitive. Sound familiar??

What you may not see initially on the outside is the skins inflammatory response being on higher alert with the skin in this condition. This further reduces the health of the skin and can even accelerate premature ageing and exacerbate conditions such as rosacea, pigmentation, problematic skin.

So autumn is upon us and I’d be lying if I didn’t say it was my favourite month (love a jumper 😂) however its certainly not our skins favourite month. When I am presented with a skin showing these issues I quickly turn to barrier repair before anything else. @Dermavidualsuk is my go-to brand for this, it allows me to completely customise your home care and it’s skin structure identical formulation makes it the perfect choice for strengthening that barrier. But there are also things you can do at home to support your skin.

Add Omega 3&6 supplements to your diet- Our skins natural lipids are made up of these essential fatty acids, so adding these supplements or increasing your intake of oily fish, avocados, walnuts etc will help keep those lipid levels high and your lipid bilayer making up the skins barrier function nice and strong. (My favourites, Advanced Nutrition Programme Skin Omegas and Moisture lock)
Use a hydrating toner- adding this step into your regime will add another dose of hydration to make up for what’s being lost. (My favourite, Dermaviduals Moisturising Toner)
Drink more water- I very rarely come across anyone who says they drink enough water, myself included. But increasing your water intake will do wonders for your skin at this time.
Invest in a humidifier- These are great to have on in your bedroom during the night when our central heating is blasting out and sucking every last bit of hydration out of your skin!! A humidifier will prevent the air from being so dry, add in a humectant serum at night, like hyaluronic acid and you will wake with skin full of hydration! (My favourite AlumierMD Ultimate Boost Serum)
Change up your moisturiser- going for a slightly thicker moisturiser will ease any feeling of dryness. I also recommend looking for products with ceramides to further increase and strengthen the barrier of the skin.

It is always recommended to review your skincare regime as the seasons change to ensure your products are giving your skin everything it needs at that time (yep its not just our clothes that change with the seasons) So please get in touch if you feel your Autumn skin issues need resolving, you need to change up your skincare, or if you are interested in any of the products mentioned. You can also book in to see me in clinic or for a virtual consultation here.

Are you suffering from ‘Maskne’?

So over the past couple of months under lockdown, I have had a few people get in touch that are working either on the front line or in a place of work where they need to wear a face mask. The issue a lot of these people are getting is their skin is breaking out. Even if they aren’t prone to spots, some have never had a spot in their life but the constant wearing of these face masks are causing them to get consistent breakouts.

The condition that is being caused by these masks is what we call acne mechanica. This type of acne is caused by the friction and heat from wearing the mask for long periods of time, even if you are not prone to acne or have an existing condition. If you are wearing make-up under the mask this can exacerbate the condition causing the pores to clog up even further. If your skins natural barrier function is compromised this may cause you to be more prone to having this condition. The condition presents as papules or pustules and may even progress to the more severe cysts that are a characteristic of grade 5 acne.

To treat acne mechanica, our first approach would obviously be removing the trigger, which in this case would be the face mask. This is not possible in most cases at the minute and may not be for many months or even years to come if you are working within the NHS. Many people may reach for the harsh acne fighting products, but this is likely to cause more irritation and impair the barrier function further.

My approach here will be initially to repair and support the barrier function and work on reducing the infection. I would start slow and gently to not cause any further irritation from skincare that is too active if you have a busy skincare regime you may need to step it back a little. A gentle cleanser that is going to cleanse the skin effectively yet support the barrier function, remember we don’t want a squeaky clean feeling from our cleanser, this is an indication of dehydration and a compromised skin. A hydrating non-comedogenic moisturiser, I always recommend Dermaviduals, their approach in treating the skin via the principle of corneotherapy is perfect for this skin condition. My go-to acid would be a low % salicylic acid initially; this is an oil-soluble acid that will gently clear out the pores and help to reduce any inflammation.

Avoid wearing make-up at times when wearing the face mask, this will just add to the clogged pores and make the ‘Maskne’ worse. Changing your mask frequently will also benefit the skin, once the mask gets damp this is the perfect breeding ground for bacteria.

Once you have finished your shift or period of wearing a mask, give your skin a good cleanse to remove any bacteria or excess skin cells hanging around.

I hope if you are reading this and suffering from ‘Maskne’ you found it useful, if you feel you need a little more support and advice on your skin please don’t hesitate to get in touch. My online consultations are free until the 4^thJuly and you can book one here, we can discuss your skin concerns and get you on the road to beautiful skin!

Treating Dehydration

In my previous post, I discussed that the most common reason for dehydration was a compromised barrier function. So initially this is what we want to focus on and restore. Once the barrier has been restored the skin will be able to hold the moisture within the skin and prevent trans epidermal water loss (TEWL).

Most people will go straight to products containing Hyaluronic acid to solve dehydration but this alone will not be enough.

The first thing to look at is your cleanser. These can be the main culprits, especially in clients with oily or acne skins. I find these clients tend to be after that squeaky clean feeling, but this tight, clean feeling we get after cleansing can be a sign of dehydration. Our cleansers need to be gentle but effective, not stripping, and maintain the skins natural PH. If your cleanser is giving you the tight feeling then its time to change!

Exfoliation is also a biggy. How often, what type, and the strength of your exfoliant is important to get right. Exfoliation and acids are a big thing at the minute with some skincare brands focusing on just that. However, if we go back to the barrier function we don’t want to overdo it and take off those layers that are part of that lipid bilayer within the stratum corneum. Exfoliation advice is as individual as you are so speak to your skincare professional who will advise you on how much your skin needs.

Hyaluronic acid is usually the go-to for dehydrated skin. However, don’t rely solely on this products to solve all your problems. In fact, in some cases, it can make those problems worse. Don’t get me wrong I love HA but under some circumstances, it’s not my immediate go-to active. HA is a humectant, which means it draws moisture in from where it can. This is great if you’re living in a humid environment, but if you’re sat at home or in an office with central heating or air-con, these create a dry environment. In these conditions what HA will do is draw up the moisture from the dermis into the epidermis, and that then maybe evaporated out of the surface with the rest of the moisture.

If we get our barrier function nice and strong and our environment isn’t too dry (turn down that thermostat) Then this active will definitely be on the list as a hydrator. HA can hold up to 1000 times its own weight in water, so get the above right and your skin will not only thank you but look dewy, fresh and plump all at the same time.

Avoiding occlusive products. Our skin needs a certain level of trans epidermal water loss (but not too much) to allow for more to be produced in the lower layers. If we use creams that are too occlusive this creates a barrier for that TEWL and our skin stop producing its own levels of moisture.

Diet. We can get extra moisture within our diet but this may not necessarily reach your skin. So up your water intake, it’s not the most effective way to hydrate your skin but what it will do is help drain out those toxins from the body and create healthier skin. It is also important to include the essential fatty acids within the diet, oily fish, avocado, nuts etc. all contain these or get extra through supplements. These EFA are components of our lipid bilayer, which makes up our barrier function.

Avoid any foods that will cause inflammation, and this may vary from person to person. But higher levels of inflammation can have an impact on how our body and skin functions. It can impact on barrier function, the natural production of hyaluronic acid, and how each and every cell in the skin functions.

So as you can see automatically reaching for the Hyaluronic acid will not solve all your problems when it comes to dehydration, it’s a case of combining all of the above to get you results.

Are you feeling dehydrated? or not sure what’s happening with your skin, and need help? I am offering FREE online consultations during lockdown so click here to book and we can get you on the track to hydrated, healthy, happy skin

Are you Dehydrated?

Dehydration is one of the most common conditions I see in my clinic. I would say 95% of new clients that come in to see me display varying degrees of dehydrated skin.

This condition can sometimes be confused with dry skin, but it is very different. Dry skin, I normally refer to as Lipid Dry skin, is a skin ‘type’ rather than a condition. So you would have been born with dry skin and it is usually genetic. A lipid dry skin is a skin lacking in the right levels of lipids and secretions (sebum). Dehydrated skin is a skin lacking in moisture. You can be both lipid dry and dehydrated or in fact any skin type, for example, oily skin can be dehydrated. Dehydration is a condition, which, the good news is it can be resolved

How does a dehydrated skin look?

The appearance of dehydrated skin is normally a dull, lacklustre complexion that can feel rough to touch. It is also common to get a tight feeling once you have cleansed like you need to apply your moisturiser to relieve it. So dehydrated skins can have an issue with closed comedones, small spots that lie under the skin. This can be due to the fact that the skins natural desquamation (shedding) process has become sluggish due to the low levels of moisture. The chemical reaction that happens within the skin to allow those top layers of skin cells to shed and become house dust needs moisture to happen.

The most common reason our skin can get dehydrated is due to a compromised barrier function. When our barrier is compromised it is incapable of doing one of its main functions; keeping the moisture within our skin. This moisture loss is referred to as trans epidermal water loss (TEWL) and even though we need a certain amount of TEWL to keep the cycle of the skin producing moisture going when we lose too much the skin can’t keep up in making enough to replace what is lost.

Reasons we may get a compromised barrier function

Harsh/unsuitable cleanser
Over exfoliation
Environment e.g. central heating
Inflammation
Medication/illness
Menopause
Using occlusive products

It is important to correct dehydration as left to prolong can go on to cause further issues, such as sensitive, reactive skin, further inflammation, congestion and even premature ageing. In my next blog, I am going to discuss how we can treat dehydration, but in the meantime, if you are reading this and it sounds familiar you may be suffering from dehydrated skin, a consultation with myself would confirm this. My online consultations are free of charge whilst on lockdown so click here to book yours today!

Treating Photodamage

My last couple of blogs I have discussed the impact the sun can have on our skin and how important protecting with sunscreen really is. Today I am going to talk about how we can treat Photodamaged skin.

The treatments that we are looking at when treating this condition are treatments that are going to cause the skin to rejuvenate. So when I talk about rejuvenating treatments, you may be thinking, what are these?

A rejuvenating treatment is a procedure that is going to encourage your skin to increase its cellular turnover, increase the production of collagen, elastin and hyaluronic acid etc. So we are encouraging the normal functioning of your skin to work more to increase the health, structure, and support of the skin to keep it looking, acting and feeling younger and healthier. All these functions will have been impaired or slowed down by the damage from the sun.

My favourite treatments to achieve this are both Chemical Peels and Microneedling. I would usually opt for Chemical Peels initially if I am working with a skin that has a high level of pigmentation from sun damage or the skin has begun to thicken. This can happen as a protective response to the sun. This will help with any surface pigmentation and encourage that epidermal cell renewal, bringing it back to a normal thickness.

Microneedling offers a deeper rejuvenation, so targeting the dermal layer of the skin that holds your structural elements like collagen and elastin. This treatment causes a controlled wounding to the skin. When the skin has been injured it will go into repair mode where all our functions will kick into action. So the fibroblasts will produce more collagen, elastin and hyaluronic acid, our epidermal cell renewal will speed up, our blood flow to the skin cells will be increased. All those functions that have slowed and aged due to the sun damage will be speeded up and act younger again. With regular treatments of microneedling or Chemical Peels, our skin will start to look and feel younger. We should also see improvements in those ageing signs of sun damage too.

The photo here shows an example of results from treating photodamaged skin. Here (top pic) you can see how the skin has thickened and those deep lines that have formed as the structural collagen within the dermis has depleted. These results were achieved with a combination course of Chemical Peels (my level 3 bespoke treatments) and Microneedling (my level 4 bespoke). We are still working on this skin and continue to achieve great results.

So when I am presented with a skin showing signs of photodamage it is really important that I don’t go straight in with the heavy rejuvenating treatments at the beginning. A skin that has been damaged by the sun will most probably be experiencing a high level of free radical activity. This could mean that the skin is not in the right place or health to then be put under the added pressure of trying to rejuvenate itself.

For our skin to do this effectively it needs to be in its best possible state to achieve good results, and if there is lots of free radical activity going on the skin is going to be fighting against this. Your results just won’t be as good.

So prepping the skin for rejuvenation is vital. This may be done in the form of a good homecare regime. Including a high level of antioxidants, like Vitamin C for example, this is a great active as the vitamin C, not only a powerful antioxidant, but its also needed for collagen synthesis and controlling the production of melanin.

Once the skin is prepped and your ready to go ahead with your treatments it is then important to feed your skin with the right actives whilst on a rejuvenation programme. This will give your skin help along the way as it heals and rejuvenates between treatments. The results from these treatments aren’t necessarily based on the treatment itself, it is based on how well your skin responds and repairs post-treatment, and feeding it with topical actives will help achieve the best results. And don’t forget we need to protect those results from further sun damage by protecting with sunscreen. Click here to read all about sunscreen, how it works and which sunscreens are best to maintain those precious results.

If you want to know any more about treating Photodamaged skin or any other treatments I offer at the clinic please get in touch. During lockdown I am offering my online consultations free of charge (normally £50), you can book appointments here, and we can get you on the road to healthier skin ready for when the clinic is open again and we can get you straight onto your rejuvenation programme.

Photodamage Uncovered

My focus this week has been on the sun, we’ve had the most beautiful weather for a few weeks now, which is extremely out of character for the UK, so I thought it’s the perfect time address this subject. My previous post was on sunscreens and how we can protect our skin from the UV rays we get from the sun. This post is going to be all about one of the most common skin conditions that I see in my clinic and is a direct result of sun exposure, Photodamage or Photoageing.

So Photodamaged skin is an example of premature ageing, and premature ageing, you may already understand if you have read my E-Book, is ageing that is caused by external and internal factors that we can usually control.

Overtime UV rays from the sun penetrate our skin, UVB that travels into our epidermis (top layer), and UVA that can travel into the deeper layers of our Dermis. UVA, in particular, weakens our skins supporting collagen and elastin resulting in wrinkles, pigmentation, and a thickened, leathery appearance.

So if we look at UVA rays and how they affect our skin. These damaging rays are out in full force regardless of the weather. Come rain or shine they are there, travelling through the clouds on a cloudy day and through our windows in our homes or cars, we cant escape them! Their wavelength allows them to travel right into the dermal layer of our skin and attack our collagen, elastin and hyaluronic acid and also the production of these components as well.

Free Radicals – UV rays cause free radical activity within our skin cells this causes damage to the cells DNA and can render them useless. They cant do the job they are there to do which can have a knock-on effect on other functions within the skin.

Vitamin C– Vitamin C is needed for collagen production, however, UV rays oxidise this vital nutrient so it is no more. Your fibroblast cells will then be missing one of the most important components in its production of collagen. Imagine baking a cake without flour!!!

Vitamin A– UV also inactivates Vitamin A receptors in the skins cells. Vitamin A is required for cellular reproduction and functioning. So if this is not available the chances of poor cellular production or damage are high.

MMP’s– MMP’s or Matrix Metalloproteinases are enzymes that live in our dermis, their job is to breakdown old, damaged collagen to make room for new collagen to be made. When the skin is exposed to excessive sun or exposed every day to the UV rays this can cause the MMP’s to proliferate and start breaking down our healthy collagen.

If we take all these factors above into account, it spells a recipe for poor collagen levels within the skin and therefore poor structural support. If our skin doesn’t have structure, then what does it have? Yes, you guessed it, WRINKLES!!!

The photo here is a powerful image portraying the power of sun damage. Its thought this gentleman was a truck driver in the States. You can clearly see that the side of his face that was exposed to the UV rays through the window in his truck has considerably more photodamage than the other side.

Another characteristic of Photodamage is pigmentation. Our skins main role is protection, and our melanin is part of the skin protective armour. However, it’s not always fully cut out for the role.

Melanocytes are the skin cells that produce our skin’s pigment (melanin), they sit at the base of the epidermis, so both UVA and UVB rays can reach them. They have an octopus-like shape allowing them to feed lots of epidermal skin cells (keratinocytes) at once. The melanocyte produces melanin to protect our skin cells nucleus form the attack of UV rays. However, with long-term exposure or excessive exposure, these melanocytes can go a little crazy. The damage to these cells DNA can cause them to over produce melanin, and deposit it into cells that it shouldn’t, such as the stem cells or neighbouring melanocyte cells. These cells, unlike the keratinocyte cells, are permanent; they don’t desquamate off so that pigment also becomes permanent. This is why we see those freckles or age spots appearing on the surface of our skin.

The thing with photodamage is its not an immediate effect. The symptoms of the condition happen gradually over the years with the accumulation of sun damage. So when the damage is actually being done we can be totally oblivious to it until we look in the mirror one day and realise that damage that has been done. It can then be a task to try and reverse the damage. The old-age saying of prevention is better than the cure is certainly one to follow here. My next blog is going to be all about prevention and how to treat photodamaged skin, so be sure to pop back in a few days.

For help with your skin book your virtual skin consultation here.